6th Uprising - Ninh Binh (Again)
Per the brochure day one on tour was a drive to Ha Long Bay for an overnight cruise through the UNESCO listed site. Yagi’s destruction and subsequent flooding forced the government to sadly put an end to that plan so we pivoted as expected opting for a day trip to nearby Ninh Binh as a replacement. Of course Fatpap had done that only days before but the early chance of group bonding was far more important. Boarding the bus was like the first day of a new school year with seat allocation paramount to the dynamic. For the sake of anonymity, aliases will be assigned to protect the innocent, but the group read as follows.
Seizing ownership of the back seat was a Melbourne bloke we’ll name Chris. He was probably sharp witted and boisterous who obviously had filters, but would show that at times they were clearly broken. Chris would be the group heavy but no doubt like most jocks, had certain vulnerabilities and a hidden creative side that would reveal themselves in time. Joining him on the rear pew was a Brisbane girl we will call Maddy. She seemed outgoing and confident, but with a massively apparent soft spot. She was most probably a paramedic or something similar given her nature, and would likely belch unashamedly before apologising like a Korean schoolgirl.
Next was a nerdy looking Indian born American guy with coke bottle glasses who’d obviously studied chemical-astrophysics-electrical-biomechanics at some ivy-league college. You know, the type of frat man that during pledge week would be locked in a cupboard for 2 days unattended until declaring to all that he wanted to “come out of the closet”. The type of guy who wanted a motorbike but who’s mother still wouldn’t allow him one. He wanted to be part of the alpha set but retreated a row forward acknowledging his true position. Let’s assign him the name Atharva.
On the opposite side of the aisle a New Zealand woman sat mostly looking out the window. Probably independent and comfortable with her own company, the lady we’ll call Jo clearly had 2 ears and 1 mouth keeping a breast of the antics throughout the bus, but would in her own way add thoughtful and measured contributions when she choose.
Another New Zealand lady was the hippy of the bus and likewise sat a little off centre. She’ll be known as Carla and probably the type of gal who’d just up and quit her job on a whim to carefreely travel the world. She presumably was well read and caring, possessed a wicked sense of humour and for now was doing something for herself perhaps. Carla’s concern was the feng shui of the bus and would in her own way keep everyone in their place.
Next an Irish couple possibly on their honeymoon or something sat side by side right in the middle initially steering clear of the back-of-bus shenanigans. He would in time pipe incoherently in a thick Irish accent asserting his willing to participate, but would remain cautious until comfortable. She on the other hand seemed a little quiet and unassuming no doubt having a lovely disposition, but like all the meek ones, she was probably abominable when out on the grog and a whole bunch of unexpected fun. You can bet she loved her food and as first time travellers they would eat everything and try every activity available. We are going to call them Tom and Rachel for this exercise.
An older couple from Adelaide gravitated toward the front half of the micro-society and appeared maybe to be childhood sweethearts spending their children’s inheritance while they still could. They were difficult to read at times but their selected seating location suggested they would perhaps be happy to mostly keep to themselves. Deborah and Mauro will be great aliases for these guys.
Not far from the front was a quietly spoken woman with the sweetest German accent. Traveling solo, her constant smile and manicured words indicated her love of nature, endless compassion and friendliness to everyone in her orbit. Let’s name her Barbara because she seemed like a Barbara.
And lastly, directly behind the driver sat a lovely looking girl from Maine, USA who in her youth would have worn horned-rimmed classes, sensible shoes and most probably been a high school cheerleader. Studiously she’d conquer medicine but now travelled the world solo as respite. We’ll name her Melanie and she doubtless sat at the front due to her acute motion sickness and need to face forward at all times.
Positioning himself somewhere in the middle of them all, but obviously toward the back because he is uber cool, Fatpap claimed a window seat trying to be part of everything.
Our group leader was a reserved and peaceful looking Vietnamese named Boa. That’s no alias, but as the days passed he would be referred to as “Chairman Boa”. The chairman was forever smiling and never bothered by any request this rag tagged bunch of tourists raised. Given he did these trips back to back for months on end, his patience and understanding were most accomodating under the circumstances.
Unsurprisingly, as the days progressed, these observations and assumptions were proven to be true asserting yet again that the school bus positioning system never lies.
The Sao Khe River, Trang An, Vietnam
With the group now gelling after a 2hr bus trip, it was off at the Trang An Wharf for a leisurely cruise down the Sao Khe River. Trang An has been designated a Scenic Landscape Complex and forms part of the UNESCO mixed world heritage site filled by lush forests and rice fields, natural caves and rivers surrounded by mountainous limestone karsts. There are several routes along the river but once again due to the recent flooding, all the caves were inaccessible today. Regardless, the river was spectacular and the mountain backdrop awe inspiring.
At about the half way mark of this tranquil river journey we passed a beautiful pagoda burgeoning from the middle of the river. Beneath the emerald waters one could see footings at least 2 feet below indicating the extent of water rise since Yagi. On it shores we alighted at a temple similarly underwater for some quick exploration and respite from the hard metal seats of the rowboat. Back on board we enjoyed the return journey in absolute tranquility, the gentle lap of oar and water the only sound at times.
Next we visited Mua Mountain and the 500 steps to the top of Hang Mua Peak. With his legs still familiar with the climb 3 days earlier, Fatpap forewent a second opportunity deciding instead to send up Derek for some possible shots. The boardwalks of the nearby Lotus Pond were today submerged under a foot of water and closed to the public, so while waiting for the others to return another local specialty was tried. Coconut Coffee is as revered as Hanoi’s Egg Coffee but while visually spectacular, it was less tastefully appealling. After lunch we stopped briefly at the entrance gate of the ancient capital for some photos before setting off back to Hanoi.
We retuned to the hotel late afternoon where Boa had arranged another group dinner in light of us not being at Ha Long Bay. Fatpap and Chris declined and rather headed into the Old Quarter for a street side serving of BBQ’d and fried Vietnamese delights. Spring rolls, pork, chicken wings and satay were washed down by many a beer while the new companions got to know one another one on one. We walked back home around midnight but not before buying some vodka for our adventure tomorrow night.