5th Uprising - Hanoi
Last day as a solo traveller today and there were a few things left to see before meeting up with the tour group later in the evening. The habitual morning peek through the window confirmed heavy rain so 2 of those items were immediately scratched. However as an indoor attraction, Hoa Lo Prison was a definite. After a long breakfast a cab was hailed and Fatpap arrived just as the doors were being unlocked - which is kinda odd for a prison?
Hoa Lò Prison was built by the French in 1886 and originally used by the colonists in Indochina for political prisoners. The name commonly translated as "fiery furnace" or even "Hell's hole" and originated from the street name Phố Hỏa Lò due to the concentration of stores selling wood and coal-fire stoves along the street in pre-colonial times.
Later it would be used by the North Vietnamese for U.S. prisoners of war during the Vietnam conflict where it acquired the western moniker “The Hanoi Hilton”. Following Operation Homecoming, the return of 591 American POW’s in 1973, the prison was used to incarcerate Vietnamese dissidents and other political prisoners. Ultimately demolished during the 1990s, its gatehouse and adjoining buildings today remain a museum.
The French called the prison Maison Centrale, a common designation to this day for French prisons, as it was located near the French Quarter and intended to hold Vietnamese political prisoners agitating for independence. With a history of extreme torture and execution, in 1913 its capacity grew from 460 to 600 inmates, and by 1954 there were more than 2000 souls being held in subhuman conditions. It became a symbol of colonialist exploitation and reason to the bitterness of the Vietnamese towards the French.
During the Vietnam War the first U.S. prisoner was sent to Hoa Lò in 1964. From the beginning they endured miserable conditions including poor food and unsanitary surrounds together with systemic tortures such as rope bindings, leg iron shackling, beatings and prolonged solitary confinement. Among its most famous captives was former U.S. Senator John McCain who spent over 5 years at The Hanoi Hilton. Through its 100 year history Hoa Lo was a formidable hell hole designed to bring out the very worst, and sometimes paradoxically the best in mankind.
With the majority of the complex replaced by high-rise apartments and hotel, a small section remains as a memorial garden where one can reflect on the decades of abuse and torture inflicted within these walls by both the French colonists and Vietnamese Nationalists. In a way the prisons demise is fitting, however what remains is tactfully and respectfully presented reminding any visitor of the atrocities of war and sovereignty. The Hanoi Hilton is well worth the visit and one of those attractions exceeding expectations.
After walking nearly 45km in constant rain over the past few days, a nasty blister with little chance of healing in the damp weather had formed on Fatpap’s ankle which today began causing concern. Swelling and distressed pain indicated infection and over a mango smoothie, a quick phone call back home indicated that might be the case. A google search found a pharmacy close by and in his best broken Vietnamese some iodine, antibiotics and dressings were purchased before returning to the hotel. From there the worlds greatest chicken noodle soup was enjoyed within spitting distance and a further few hours spent in the bar journaling and photo editing. Tonight the tour would officially commence so a quick nap was taken to round out a really nice, relaxing last day in Hanoi.
We met in the hotel restaurant as 13 complete strangers (except of course for the 2 couples) never imagining that in 17 days we would part in tears having experienced, and learnt so much with each other. Vietnam & Cambodia would be the canvas but the brush strokes were the dozen companions sitting around the table this first night in rainy Hanoi.
As mentioned Intrepid Travel took over from here and on all accounts to this point, and now some weeks later penning these words, the company is outstandingly professional with their attention to details never waining. The obligatory housekeeping was attended to, passports, insurance, next of kin and dietary requirements, but the overwhelming take away was a common denominator of “I like a beer” or “I like a wine”. It clearly was gonna be a great trip. You will come to learn more about all participants in the coming pages, but like the tour itself, that will be evolutionary.
First group dinner. KOTO Restaurant, Hanoi, Vietnam
Intrepid’s ethos is about giving back to the communities and the countries they visit and a reason they were selected for this trip. Eco-tourism or self-sustainability, it makes no difference - it just makes sense. The first offical outing was a group dinner not far from the hotel at KOTO restaurant. Established as a educational and training restaurant, it was heavily backed financially in the early years by Intrepid as a means of support, but such funds are now funnelled elsewhere with KOTO fully established and soley supported with daily, and guaranteed patronage. Romance aside, the food was amazing, the service impeccable and the pricing ridiculously affordable and with the night growing longer, the company was enlightening.
The first “unoffical” outing was a trip down to Beer Street to sort out the wheat from the chaff. The group was split by natural selection and we all just went with the flow. 3 Australians, 2 Americans and 1 Kiwi in a Vietnamese bar drinking watered down free shots going through the motions like a speed dating night at the local RSL.
That one session solidified friendships establishing the tone of the next few weeks to come.
