Sunrise 4 - COBAR to BROKEN HILL
The suns predawn glow stirred us from rest and we brushed away the bugs – not from our eyes – but from every flat surface of Morrison, before finding our chairs and savouring the freshly percolated coffee to follow the sun on her daily arc.
Derek – the drone – was thrown skyward to capture the vastness of this magnificent region, highlighting the richness of red soils and grazing sheep on the spattering of greenery.
Reluctantly leaving the solitude of Meralda Station after breakfast, we returned to Cobar town central renowned for its mining history. A few kilometres south we headed for Fort Bourke, an operating open cut mine where tourists flock from all points of the compass to view the scope of this mining operation. We ascended the steep and winding road to the lookout point only to find it closed to the public for the day. So after driving 800 km to see the biggest hole in Australia, we were somewhat disappointed. It’s ok though, we have both been to Adelaide before.
Undeterred, we tracked back to town to excitedly spend some time in the revamped Cobar mining museum. The newly painted exterior and freshly cut grass promised a morning of historical significance. However the QR code failed to register on our Service NSW app and on closer inspection, a blatantly obvious sign announced the grand opening of this wonderful facility would be – you guessed it - tomorrow.
Awesome dunnies
Sadly, unlike thousands before us, we missed out on Cobar’s two greatest attractions. However, we highly recommend the Shell service station on the western end of the Barrier Highway who’s dunnies are impeccable.
The ever changing scenery along the Barrier Hwy is remarkably lush, surprisingly green and scattered with wild goats grazing along the roadside. However the road is hypnotically straight, and due to the unusual spread of feed, very few roadside Jackson Pollocks were sighted. Dick, the owner of Meralda, explained the vast amount of recent rain meant plenty of feed for all wildlife. In dryer times the roadside becomes a haven for feeding animals as the tarmac catches any water and funnels it straight to the shoulders. This becomes a dicey business for the native animals who have to avoid traffic in both directions. The goats on the other hand seem acutely aware of all passersby.
Not even half way !
We knew Broken Hill wasn’t far away when the speed limit dropped and the road began its gentle meander through the foothills of town. After establishing camp and collecting the keys to our luxurious ensuite ammenities, we immediately headed 25km north to the picturesque town of Silverton. For such a wayward outpost it holds a rich and eclectic history, and for a town having a population less than most Mexican families, it really has much to offer. The collection of ruined houses, abandoned vehicles and humble art galleries are a juxtaposition to the rudimentary Mad Max 2 Museum. The Australian classic was filmed in the region and put the town back on the map over a century past its founding.
Local artist John Dynon, a true character of the town, paid little attention to our vaccination certificates. He stated emphatically, without lifting his eyes from the canvas he was creating, “I don’t work for the government mate and couldn’t give a shit”.
We indulged a few frosty beers on the balcony of the old town pub – who did give a shit about our vaccination status - and foolishly selected a quick nibble of locally made nachos. In honesty, it was merely spaghetti bolognaise with the pasta replaced by corn chips and we should have known better! Rueful of that decision, we departed for the nearby Mundi Mundi plains to photograph the last stage of the suns arc begun 15 hrs and 500km earlier.
The photographers curse of a cloudless sky fell upon us that evening, but the sweeping vista of rocky desert – which locals claim can be seen for over 100km – more than compensated for any disappointment.
Mundi Mundi Plains, NSW