Singapore, The Sling
Having walked 42 kms over the past few days our final one in Singapore was always planned to be a wind down. Boat rides, trishaw adventures and keeping good our commitment to a drink or two at the famous Raffles Hotel. Over breakfast we explored our trishaw options only to discover in true Fatpaparazzi style, our friend COVID had affected that boutique little industry and the one operator available was completely booked out for the day. We are nothing if not adaptable so hotfooted it out of the hotel down to the nearby Clarke Quay to catch a Bumboat for a relaxing cruise along the Singapore River.
Traditionally known as tongkang, or sea going barge, the wooden Bumboats were employed in the 19th century to transport goods along the Singapore river. Our tranquil adventure encapsulated both Singapore’s heritage and modernity in one activity, spanning the iconic districts of Clarke Quay, Boat Quay and Marina Bay. Sitting back in the warm morning light we soaked up the city’s rich history to the soft hum of electric engines.
Cruising in the equatorial humidity worked up a mighty thirst so after docking we grabbed a taxi and headed a little north to Raffles Hotel. Steeped in history and famous for the Singapore Sling, following the turn of the century in colonial Singapore, Raffles became the gathering place for the community. The Long Bar was its favourite watering hole where it was very common to see gentlemen nursing glasses of gin or whisky. Unfortunately for the ladies though etiquette dictated they could not consume alcohol in public, so, for the sake of modesty, teas and fruit juices were their beverage of choice. However an extremely insightful bartender named Ngiam Tong Boon saw a niche in the market and created a cocktail looking like plain fruit juice, but actually heavily infused with gin and liqueurs. In 1915 the Singapore Sling was born and needless to say it was an instant hit.
Our arrival was impeccable as the heavens opened at the same time as the bar and we ventured in to wait out the storm. And by that we mean drink. The slings were SIN $32 per glass and worth every penny in our learned opinion. But attempting to hide our gluttonous behaviour, we will let you do the math. Our bill after a few hours was SIN $384.
We became lost on the way out, not so much from the aforementioned drinks, but the fact the Raffles complex is a rabbit warren with the original smaller hotel now surrounded by a ring of additional shops and salons. Ok, maybe it was the slings? Regardless, we made it to the foyer where a liveried Sikh doormen ushered a taxi for our next adventure.
What’s a trip to Singapore without some shopping. And where better to shop than on Orchard Road. World renowned, this 2.5km long thoroughfare is Singapore’s retail heart boasting discount outlets, department stores and upscale boutiques alongside luxury hotels and restaurants. The shopping strip began its life in the 1950’s and grown in stature ever since. Cut in the 1830’s to service local “orchards”, it was on Fatpap’s first visit in 1977 a haven for exotic and affordable products. Now it could be any street with any shops in any city such is the homogenised world we live in. Nothing is really foreign anymore. Nevertheless, we dragged our gin infused bodies in and out of the rain to grab a few summer clothes for the next part of our journey.
A train ride home saw our weary bones retire to the hotel pool in search of cooling down and consumption of some much needed carbs.
During our morning Bumboat ride we spied the restaurant precinct along Boat Quay vowing to return that night for a long awaited serving of Singapore Chili Crab. With the sun setting, we walked through alleyways and along the quay dodging restaurant hawkers until we settled on a riverside table at Cottage and Kettle. We overindulged as usual, but with little more to do in this city nation, we sat back enjoying the views ticking off the last of our “must do” activities.
Singapore was done and dusted. All that remained was a predawn start and a taxi ride to the airport where we satisfied ourselves with breakfast, coffee and a wander through the airport butterfly house. It wasn’t long before we boarded our much anticipated flight to the Maldives, but that faithful reader, is another story…
