Singapore, The Bling
We woke with the sun on day 2 wondering with all the careful consideration given to every aspect of the aesthetics of the hotel, who was in charge of the television positioning. We had graciously been upgraded to a city view room and as promised, afforded 180 degree sweeping vistas of the city to the north. However smack bang in the middle was a black square of electronics obscuring most of it. Lucky it was an upgrade. Undeterred, we breakfasted in the Executive Club Lounge where it was unanimously decided to spend an hour or two lolling in the beautiful pool to plan out the days agenda.
Today was full of “must sees”. The first being the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple only meters from our door step. Hosting richly designed interiors and comprehensive exhibits on Buddhist art and history, they tell a story of a culture thousands of years old. Constructed in 2007, the temple derives its name from what the Buddhists regard as the left canine tooth of Buddha himself recovered from his funeral pyre in Kushinagar India, displayed on the temple’s grounds - somewhere. We saw eyeball relics, fingernail relics, ear wax relics … but not one solitary tooth. Nonetheless the facility was mesmerising, even to us Godless heathens.
At the gateway to Chinatown, we explored the mini city within a city just as she was coming to life. Store fronts slowly unfurled with cheap arse souvenirs unveiled to the travelling public. Locals began settling into their no doubt daily routines as tourists commenced pouring into the tight alleyways and market stalls. In the central square of Sago Street, masked men played or watched countless rounds of Xiangqi, Chinese chess in virtual silence save the constant exhaling of cigarette smoke. At the completion of every game the loser would reach into his top pocket and without grace or ceremony hand the winner a precisely folded ten dollar note. One could only imagine how many pockets that one piece of currency would visit by days end.
There is something uniquely special about Singapore’s Chinatown. The blend of quality clothing stores, over priced jewellery, tacky souvenirs and fresh produce weave together in tightly packed stalls seamlessly joined to their neighbours to make the district exciting. You cant help but want to spend money or sample a few of the local refreshments. We did both and could have meandered our way through the remaining stalls, but choose instead to return to the hotel for refreshment of another kind. By mid morning the temperature was soaring and we strategically headed to the Parkroyal via air conditioned shopping centres connected by tunnels and arcades. Like rats in a drain pipe we scurried home to promptly plunge into both the rooftop infinity pool and a pair of lycée daiquiris.
Refreshed, we hailed another taxi for the short trip to Little India not far north of our digs. Yet another of Singapores vibrant cultural enclaves boasting temples and mosques, street art and brightly painted shophouses. Along the main drag Serangoon Road, unfussy canteens and hip eateries share kerb space with stores selling gold jewellery, colourful silks and fresh flower garlands. We walked up one side and down the other discovering them all before popping into one of the said hip eateries for a spectacular curry and fresh lime juice. The brain buzzed with the kaleidoscopic colours, sounds and smells this unbelievably flamboyant and energetic region exudes that only bodes well for the next Fatpaparazzi international expedition booked in 2023 - hint hint.
Leaving Little India we found the nearest MRT station and crossed the city undergrountd to our next “must see” location, Gardens by the Bay. This 250 acre waterfront park was first conceived in 2005 as part of the nations aim of raising the quality of life by enhancing greenery and flora in the city. Emerging from beneath the Marina bay Shoppes, we crossed the skywalk dissecting the Sands hotel lobby to spy the vast reserve from an elevated height. Here the distinguishing feature was the Supertree Grove with 18 tree-like structures dominating the landscape. Spider like their purple branches contrasted the green backdrop promising a greater show after sunset.
First stop was the Flower Dome, the world’s largest glass greenhouse covering 3 acres and replicating a cool-dry mediterranean climate. Featuring an ever changing flower field display and eight other gardens from around the world, it exhibits exotic flowers and plants from five different continents. Hiding amongst the foliage were driftwood sculptures of fairytale-esque creatures bringing the displays even further to life. Having received strict instructions to vacate the building for the premier party of the TV series Rings of Power, Fatpap almost scored a red carpet invite casually joining the Singaporean celebrity A list in their group photo opportunity. Sadly no-one asked for his autograph and he was promptly ushered from the VIP area.
Adjacent to the Flower Dome stood the slightly smaller but much higher Cloud Forest conservatory. Replicating the cool moist conditions found in tropical mountain regions around 2,500 metres above sea level in South-East Asia and Central and South America, it features a 42 metre mountain and the worlds second tallest indoor waterfall. Entering the forest we were immediately greeted by the aforementioned Cloud Mountain covered in lush vegetation and veiled in mist. Contrasting the more formal presentation of the Flower Dome, the forest was a Rivendale landscape of rare vegetation and dramatic vistas. Ascending the mountain by elevator, the descent via a circular path crossed beneath the 35 metre waterfall multiple times. With the sun hastening its way westward, we quickened our stride toward our third and final destination of the night.
Curiously, though not surprisingly, the “trees” in the adjacent Supertree Grove are fitted with environmental technologies mimicking the ecological function of living trees. They harness solar energy which is used for some of the lighting show - similar to how trees photosynthesize, and collect rainwater for use in irrigation and fountain displays - similar to how trees absorb rainwater for growth. The Supertrees are home to enclaves of unique and exotic ferns, vines and orchids but we were there for the light show!
With the sun setting, the grove slowly came to life like Pandora in the movie Avatar. Through an ever changing coordinated light and music show, this one known as The Garden Rhapsody, twice a night for 15 minutes the area sings with a symphony of light and colour. It was as spectacular as promised and something not to be missed.
Once completed it was time to head home so we endeavoured to find the MRT station. Becoming lost - could have looked at the map maybe - we doubled back along a dimly lit boardwalk following the river bank only to stumble upon some of the most fortuitous images we had taken all trip. Agreeing that would be the perfect way to end a perfect day, we finally slouched into some low, and oh so comfortable hotel lobby lounges for as you would imagine, some evening cocktails.
Marina Bay Sands at night