Argentina
MENDOZA
Our flight from Santiago to Mendoza saw us cross the Andes. All eyes were on the plane windows, we watched as the jagged summits stretch endlessly before us. As we soared above the towering formations, the sunlight danced along the rocky outcrops, casting intricate shadows that highlighted the rugged beauty of this iconic mountain range. Each moment spent in the air offered a new perspective on this colossal barrier, a reminder of the relentless forces that shaped the land over eons.
Soon, the plane began its descent, and the stark, alpine landscape gradually transformed into the verdant valleys of Mendoza. A vibrant patchwork of vineyards and orchards unfolded beneath us, the rich greens and golds contrasting vividly with the arid hues of the mountains. It was as if we had crossed an invisible threshold into a paradise defined by its natural bounty. As we touched down on the sun-kissed runway, the excitement of arrival mingled with the lingering awe of the spectacular journey through the Andes, setting the stage for the adventures that awaited us in this picturesque Argentine wine country.
Mendoza City lies at the foothills of the majestic Sierra de los Paramillos, a picturesque range that forms part of the towering Andes Mountains. The city has a storied history that dates back to the 1560s when Spanish settlers from Chile established and relocated the settlement multiple times. However, it was the catastrophic earthquake of 1861 that profoundly reshaped Mendoza's character and landscape, claiming thousands of lives and leaving behind significant destruction. In the wake of this disaster, city planners introduced a new blueprint in 1863, featuring broad tree-lined avenues, vibrant plazas, and sprawling public parks, transforming Mendoza into a more organised and aesthetically pleasing urban center, while incorporating the remnants of the old city.
The latter part of the 19th century marked a pivotal moment for Mendoza, as a wave of immigrants, particularly from Italy, began to settle in the region. This influx of skilled laborers and entrepreneurs catalyzed economic growth, leading to the development of various industries that would come to define the area. Despite Mendoza's arid climate, innovative irrigation techniques have harnessed the natural flow of water, allowing for the flourishing of agriculture. The resulting lush market gardens, orchards, and celebrated vineyards are a testament to the city's ability to thrive in challenging conditions. Today, Mendoza is renowned not only for its picturesque landscape and rich cultural heritage but also for its key industries, such as wine production, fruit preservation, and petrochemicals, all of which contribute significantly to both the local economy and the broader region.
So why did we choose Mendoza? I can’t recall if it was the chicken or the egg that drew us in, but the allure of this enchanting destination was undeniable. Mendoza, home to the majestic Aconcagua—the tallest peak in the Americas—promised breathtaking landscapes and thrilling adventures. It also has the reputation as Argentina's premier wine-producing area. By sheer coincidence, our planned visit coincided with the vibrant "Vendimia" Festival, a jubilant celebration honouring the artistry and labor of winemaking in Argentina's leading regions. It felt like fate had aligned for our visit.
As we arrived in Mendoza, we were instantly immersed in a bustling atmosphere that bristled with excitement. The streets were alive with activity—stalls were being set up, barricades erected, and colourful floats meticulously crafted in every direction. After checking into our hotel, perfectly situated in the heart of the parade area, we seized the moment for a refreshing dip in the pool to shake off the weariness of travel. The warm evening air beckoned us outside, where we indulged in our inaugural night of wine tasting. With a glass of exquisite Malbec in hand, we found our senses heightened by the continuous procession of floats parading around our hotel.
Every corner of the hotel brimmed with the enthusiastic energy of winemakers eager to share their finest creations, and we happily obliged, tasting the rich flavours that defined the region. Delegates from every province showcased their talents on grand floats or strolled leisurely along the lively streets, all while engaging with eager festival-goers. Our front-row seats provided us with an unparalleled view of the celebration, where the clinking of glasses mingled with laughter, music, and the vibrant spirit of Argentina. The procession seemed to stretch endlessly, captivating our attentions and leaving us in a blissful wine-soaked reverie throughout our entire visit.
The following morning, we woke early, some of us foggier than others. The morning air invigorated our spirits, yet a sense of trepidation hung in the atmosphere as we gathered for breakfast. Our guide, an experienced mountaineer with a rugged charm and a wealth of knowledge about the region, greeted us with a knowing smile. He explained that our trek to the Aconcagua viewing area would be challenging, testing both our stamina and resolve.
We had a 360-kilometer drive ahead of us filled with various stops that would allow us to acclimatise to the increasing altitude. Our first stop was the charming town of Uspallata, perched at an altitude of 2,039 meters. With its adobe buildings and friendly locals, Uspallata provided a perfect introduction to the region's charm, giving us a chance to stretch our legs and savor some local cuisine.
Continuing our ascent, we soon found ourselves at the spectacular Potrerillos Dam, a marvel of engineering surrounded by a breathtaking backdrop of jagged peaks and azure waters. The dam not only served as a vital source of water but also created a stunning lake that sparkled under the sun. The landscape shifted dramatically around us, each new vista a reminder of how the elevation was already affecting the flora and fauna. With the iconic Aconcagua looming ever closer on the horizon, our vehicle wound its way through the mountains, each kilometer bringing us nearer to the adventure that awaited at the base of this historic peak.
Potrerillos Dam
Our next stop was Puente del Inca, the Inca Bridge, situated at an elevation of 2,719 meters above sea level. This remarkable formation lies gracefully on the banks of the Mendoza River, flanked by the majestic hills of Banderita Norte and Banderita Sur. The Inca Bridge stands as a silent witness to the many stories of the past, having served as a crucial passage for travellers traversing the rugged terrain between Argentina and Chile during colonial times.
The Inca Bridge was formed through the natural processes of erosion and sedimentation. The combination of a fluvioglacial deposit, which was gradually undermined, and the mineral-rich waters of the area's thermal springs contributed to the cementing of the bridge structure. The vibrant colours embellishing the bridge, courtesy of various colonies of green, red, and blue algae, create a dazzling spectacle against the backdrop of Andean landscapes. These thermal springs, the highest in Argentina, maintain a temperature range of 34 to 38 degrees Celsius and emanate iron and other minerals, infusing the surrounding rock with hues of fiery orange, ochre, and sunny yellow.
Suspended 27 meters above the river below, the natural bridge stretches nearly 50 meters in length and spans 28 meters in width, offering a breathtaking view to all who visit. Standing atop this geological marvel, I was in awe of both its grandeur and the surrounding scenery, an enchanting mix of natural beauty and historical significance. The Puente del Inca, with its vibrant colours and storied past, serves not only as a remarkable site of geological interest but also as a poignant reminder of the rich tapestry of human and natural history intertwined in this extraordinary corner of the world.
The area is now an historic site and the hot springs are closed to the public … so we missed out on the hot springs … again
Then on to our final destination. The journey to Aconcagua delivered breathtaking vistas. Nestled in the heart of the Andes mountain range, this national park is a treasure trove of staggering mountain peaks, sprawling valleys, and wide-open spaces that seem to stretch into infinity. The rivers, glinting with a reddish-brown hue, are a testament to the tremendous altitude, where swift currents blend the earth with the water, creating a unique and captivating landscape. As we navigated the road leading to the park, one of the thirteen passes across the formidable Andes, every twist and turn revealed mind blowing panoramic views.
There she was - Aconcagua, standing majestically at 6,961 meters, not only commands respect as the highest mountain in the Americas but also enthralls climbers and trekkers alike, being one of the illustrious "Seven Summits." As we set out, the sheer magnificence of this volcanic formation loomed before us, a constant reminder of nature's grandeur, pushing us onward into the stunning wilderness that awaited. Each step on that rugged path brought us closer to an experience that few have the privilege to encounter, enveloped in the splendour of the Andes.
We didn’t undertake the challenging 15-day trek to its summit – that’s not for the faint-hearted with only a day to spare. Instead, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll to a viewpoint, or at least as leisurely as one can manage while ascending at 3,500 meters above sea level. The air grew thinner the higher we climbed, making each breath slightly more laborious, but it also heightened our senses. An overwhelming silence enveloped us, a profound stillness that amplified the grandeur of our surroundings. The quiet was punctuated only by the occasional rustle of the wind whispering through the ancient landscape, creating a serene atmosphere that felt almost sacred.
The scenery was simply stunning. Jagged peaks jutted dramatically into the sky, their snowy summits glistening under the sun’s golden rays. Rich green valleys unfurled below us like a lush carpet, dotted with wildflowers bursting in vibrant colours. It was as if nature herself had composed a masterpiece, each element meticulously placed, every detail thoughtfully crafted. This hike marks the beginning of my love/hate relationship with superlatives and adjectives. With each breathtaking vista, I’m realising how inadequate language can be when trying to capture the essence of such awe-inspiring landscapes. No matter the words I conjure, they will never fully convey the experience of standing in the midst of such magnificent serenity.
Upon our return we meandered through the vibrant streets of Mendoza. The sun-drenched sidewalks led us past a delightful array of funky restaurants and charming wine bars, each promising a unique taste of the region's renowned culture. After a leisurely afternoon sampling delectable local cuisine and sipping on exquisite wines, we knew it was time to retreat to our hotel. The promise of another refreshing swim awaited us, a blissful interlude before the night’s grand celebration of the wine festival.
With hiking boots swapped for our glad rags, we felt a renewed sense of excitement as we stepped out into the evening, energised by the infectious atmosphere buzzing around us. The parade was in full swing (again), an explosion of colour, music, glamour and joy as the voting for the Festival Queen commenced. The 'virreinas' dressed in red capes, sceptres and crowns took to the floats in anticipation of the final vote count.
As the evening wore on, we discovered the secret Argentinians had for banishing the fatigue from our hiking limbs — a fine glass of Malbec. With every sip, the complexities of this world-famous wine enveloped us, soothing our sore muscles and amplifying our joy. The rich flavours melded perfectly with the festive mood, creating an experience that was not just about tasting wine, but about celebrating life in all its vibrancy. Surrounded by friends, laughter, and the mesmerising rhythm of the parade, we revelled in the intoxicating blend of wine and companionship.
Three nights in Mendoza was not enough.
BUENOS AIRES
We boarded our first domestic flight just five days into the trip. As we wheeled our suitcases toward the check-in desk, it quickly became apparent that we were pushing the limits—not just in terms of our excitement, but with our luggage as well. Our bags were filled with a hodgepodge of clothes, shoes, camera gear, and various other essentials. The attendant at the desk wore a look of exasperation as we stumbled through our attempts at Spanish, trying to explain how we ended up with these bulging suitcases. It felt like a confusing comedy of errors, as one of us struggled to translate while the others fretted over whether we'd be forced to pay steep fees for our excess baggage.
The attendant, perhaps sensing our desperation and excitement, finally took pity on us. After some hurried discussions with her colleagues—who I could only assume were bemused by our dilemma—she agreed to let us pass without charging extra fees. As we picked up our bags and made our way toward security, we felt lighter, not because of our suitcases, but because of the kindness we had just experienced amidst the whirlwind of travel. This small victory became a cherished moment of our trip, reminding us of the goodwill that exists in the world, even when communication barriers feel overwhelming.
The journey from Mendoza to Buenos Aires spans an impressive distance of approximately 1,050.4 kilometres, a transition that bridges two contrasting landscapes within Argentina. Departing from the dry, rocky terrain of Mendoza Province you experience a dramatic shift as you fly eastward towards the verdant capital. Buenos Aires, with its vibrant culture and dynamic urban life, stands in stark contrast to the arid backdrop of Mendoza. Positioned along the banks of the Rio De La Plata, the city serves as a bustling hub that reflects the heart of Argentine society.
The Rio De La Plata itself is a magnificent waterway, acting as a natural boundary between Argentina and Uruguay. Spanning 290 kilometers in length and reaching widths of up to 2 kilometers, it is a key element of the region's geography and identity. The river's dark brown hue, reminiscent of chocolate milk, is a testament to the sediments carried downstream from the Andes, which loom to the west. These sediments not only shape the river’s colour but also enrich the fertile plains that contribute to the area's agricultural productivity.
As a huge admirer of Lloyd Webber's musicals, particularly Evita, my heart raced with excitement as my plane descended toward the vibrant city of Buenos Aires. In my mind, I could already hear the exhilarating notes of “What’s new Buenos Aires?” echoing through the bustling streets. The prospect of immersing myself in the rich history of Eva Perón and the electric atmosphere of the tango-filled nights had me daydreaming of the album I had listened to countless times. However, the jubilant moment I had envisioned quickly became a memory overshadowed by the typical chaos of airline travel in South America. With long lines, lost luggage, and the usual stressors, my dreams of a grand musical welcome seemed to fade, replaced by the rigours of international travel.
Yet, despite the initial frenzy, that enthusiasm for Lloyd Webber's work lingered in my spirit as I explored the city. Each corner of Buenos Aires seemed to resonate with the vibrancy of the musical. As I wandered through the colourful neighbourhoods of La Boca and San Telmo, nostalgic tunes played softly in my mind, infusing my journey with a sense of drama and flair that only an Evita fan could appreciate.
We didn’t have any specific plans for Buenos Aires; our time was limited to just 36 hours before joining up with our fellow travellers bound for Antarctica. We made the best of it by wandering through the streets and immersing ourselves in the breathtaking neoclassical/Beaux-Arts, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco architecture. We stood in awe before the Pink Palace where Evita famously delivered her “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” speech, enjoyed coffee and cake at trendy roadside cafés and eventually found our way to La Recoleta Cemetery.
Eva Perón rests in La Recoleta Cemetery. She gained greater recognition in Australia through the musical than for her influence on Argentina's Descamisados, or "shirtless ones," during her husband Juan Perón's administration.
María Eva Duarte de Perón was an Argentine politician, activist, actress, and philanthropist who held the title of First Lady of Argentina from June 1946 until her passing in July 1952 as the spouse of President Juan Domingo Perón. Hailing from a background of poverty in the small town of Los Toldos, she moved to Buenos Aires at age 15 to pursue a career in stage, radio, and film acting.
In 1951, Eva Perón announced her candidacy for the Peronist nomination for the office of Vice President of Argentina, receiving great support from the Peronist political base, low-income and working-class Argentines who were referred to as descamisados or "shirtless ones". Opposition from the nation's military and bourgeoisie, coupled with her declining health, ultimately forced her to withdraw her candidacy. In 1952, shortly before her death from cancer at 33, Eva Perón was given the title of "Spiritual Leader of the Nation" by the Argentine Congress. She was given a state funeral upon her death, a prerogative generally reserved for heads of state.
Evita remains a lasting presence in the minds of Argentines. Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, who is Argentina's second female president following Isabel Perón, asserts that the women from her era owe much to Eva for "her spirit of passion and determination."
The tale surrounding her remains is like something out of a novel. After Eva Perón passed away, her embalmed body vanished three years later, taken by the military regime that overthrew her husband, President Juan Perón. For almost twenty years thereafter, it journeyed around the globe before finally being laid to rest in her family mausoleum at Cementerio de la Recoleta in central Buenos Aires.
After returning to the hotel, we slipped into our swimsuits and made our way to yet another pool, a tranquil oasis that beckoned us with its sparkling blue waters. The heat of the afternoon dissipated as we floated and laughed, momentarily forgetting the busy city that lay just beyond the hotel walls. To enhance our relaxation, we savoured the smooth, refreshing taste of an Argentinian Pisco Sour to set the tone for the evening ahead.
As dusk began to settle, we ventured into the vibrant city, eager to explore its lively streets and rich culture. The air was filled with a symphony of sounds—laughter, music, and the tantalizing aromas wafting from nearby restaurants. We settled into a cozy spot, drawn in by the allure of Argentinian cuisine. Our generous portions of perfectly grilled beef arrived, sizzling and fragrant, each bite melting in our mouths. Paired with a velvety glass of Malbec or two, the meal was nothing short of a culinary delight, a testament to the region's renowned flavours.
TIGRE ISLAND, PALMERO AND TANGO
Our final day in Buenos Aires was packed with excitement and anticipation, as we sought to make the most of our remaining hours in this vibrant city. With a carefully crafted itinerary, we embarked on a cruise along the mighty Rio de la Plata to Tigre Island, followed by a walking tour in the trendy district of Palermo, and concluded with an enchanting Tango show. Eager to soak in every moment, we caught an early morning boat, ready for an adventure.
As we glided through the shimmering waters of the river, the stunning skyline of Buenos Aires unfolded before us, each building telling its own story against the backdrop of the vast expanse of water. The experience was nothing short of breathtaking, and it quickly became clear why so many people flock to this scenic boat ride. However, our enthusiasm was tinged with a hint of folly, as we had mistakenly believed that Tigre Island would be home to actual tigers. Instead of the exotic wildlife we envisioned, we found a picturesque landscape dotted with rowing clubhouses, basking in the sun's warmth.
Despite the absence of the big cats we had hoped for, the island still offered a delightful morning filled with exploration. We meandered through the stunning grounds of the Museo de Arte Tigre, marveling at the architecture and the exquisite art within, before venturing into the lively artisan markets.
No sooner had we returned to the hotel than it was time to head out to Palermo, a vibrant neighborhood in Buenos Aires known for its eclectic charm and artistic flair. As we strolled through the streets, we immersed ourselves in the rich history of graffiti in Argentina. The walls of Palermo, adorned with colorful murals and provocative street art, narrate tales of social movements, cultural expressions, and the creative spirit of the city's youth. Each piece told a story, making our exploration not just a visual experience but also an insightful journey into the heart of Argentine identity.
The lively atmosphere of Palermo was further enhanced by its reputation for some of the city's best dining and nightlife options, exuding a funky vibe that was infectious. After a brief stop for a quick beer at a local bar, we felt invigorated and ready for what lay ahead. Back at the hotel, we knew it was time to frock up and prepare for the evening’s grand event. Excitement bubbled as we joined our fellow travelers bound for Antarctica, each of us eager to share our stories and experiences over dinner. The night promised to be unforgettable, culminating in a spectacular Tango show that would bring the allure of Argentina’s dance culture to life.
It was an incredible evening filled with yet more beef, yet more Malbec, and a couple of hours of the Tango; however, we had to hit the hay early since we were scheduled to gather in the foyer at 3:30 AM for our flight to Ushuaia. The anticipation of meeting Peter Hillary while still half-asleep marked the beginning of our adventure... We were promptly directed onto buses bound for Buenos Aires airport, where staff efficiently processed check-ins for 130 passengers along with their luggage—labelling bags for our charter flight to Ushuaia and assigning cabins for the cruise. It felt quite surreal. Were we excited? You bet!
