Reunification
Today the Vietnam leg of our tour officially ended at 8:00am and according to the brochure slated as a rest day. Two of our beloved crew were flying out today and later tonight perhaps others might join us for the Cambodian component, however in the “no-mans-land” of a free day most of us stumped up for a half day trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels. Located about 70 kilometres northwest of the city, the tunnels of Cu Chi are an immense network of interconnecting passages forming part of a larger network underlying much of the country.
With a new bus and guide for the day, light rain fell as we journeyed north in relative silence nursing monstrous hangovers from the previous nights celebrations. At Cu Chi we were escorted along with the thousands of other tourists through the visitor centre then out to the actual tunnel grounds. Constructed under the jungle terrain during the first Indochina war between 1945 and 1954, they were used against the French colonialists as hiding spots for Vietnamese revolutionary troops and to discreetly commute between regions evading French scouts. During the Vietnam War the network expanded significantly into an assembly complex for communist guerrilla soldiers taking shelter from aerial bombardment and for mounting surprise attacks after which they could disappear beneath the ground.
Running a length over 250 km the tunnels are a marvel of necessity and ingenuity showcasing the tenacity required when countering a larger, more resourced opponent. Between 3 and 12 metres below the surface an intricate system of passageways connect living quarters, first aid facilities, weapons storage and meetings points creating a virtual city for both the Viet Minh dissidents and later Viet Cong. Water was drawn underground from nearby rivers and ingenious multi levelled ventilation shafts used to discreetly release smoke from cooking fires together with any poisonous gases pumped into the tunnels by the Americans. Trap doors covertly lined many of the routes and employed to disguise other passages when infiltrated by the enemy.
Above ground the ingenuity continued with towers of dirt resembling termite mounts built directly over tunnel entrances with rifle holes camouflaged within its hollowed outer walls. Elsewhere secret entrances were hidden among the ground foliage but marked by nearby trees. The entrances were so small only the Vietnamese could use them with many American too big. Fatpap can attest to their size by not even managing to descend past his hips.
Lying both strategically and randomly thought out the jungle, booby traps were hidden within paths, rivers and dense leafy ground cover. These horrific traps would torturously capture their victims with spikes and various other devices where they remained until killed, or captured by the VC. With limited resources available, some of their designs were ingenious adding another dimension of “out smarting” the foreign invaders.
The Vietnamese were unbelievably skilled in guerrilla warfare and equally skilled in recycling. Undeternated bombs were carefully dismantled and repurposed into other weaponry, while American parachutes were used as both hammocks and shelter. The rubber from vehicle tyres were cut to create typical Vietnamese footwear with many of them purposely designed in a reverse direction so to leave footprints belying the wearers true direction of travel.
A short 100 metre section of tunnel has been modified to accommodate western visitors with an internal expansion by some 30% and early exit points placed at 20, 40 and 60 metres for those unable, or too frightened to make the full distance.
The Cu Chi Tunnel systems were of great importance to the Viet Cong in their resistance to American and ARVN forces and as their military headquarters served as an isolated stronghold to plan strategies and launch successful military campaigns, most notably the victorious Tet Offensive in 1968.
Back in Ho Chi Minh City many opted for an easy lunch next to the hotel in a little restaurant visited the day before by Carla and Jo. Sprouting endlessly about the “best cheese toastie” we called their bluff and had one for ourselves. They both were right and the restaurant’s coasters were as much fun as useful. With a shower and change of clothes some of us headed downtown to visit the local Ben Thành Markets, one of the earliest surviving structures and most important symbols of the city. Under strict instruction our major objective was finding a small conical hat for Bernadette that thus far had been alluding us. Who is Bernadette you ask?, Maddy’s cat of course. The markets were pretty cool and seemingly more tightly pack than those in other cities visited, but we got what we wanted, including a small conical hat for a spoilt Australian cat, and walked home in very light drizzle.
Shopped out and dying for a scotch, Fatpap spied an upmarket hotel next to The Queen Anne and chanced his arm on some yet unavailable dry ginger ale. Like a bloodhound, his scent was spot on and he enjoyed a few, well 5, Scotch & Drys while waiting for the group meeting to start next door at 6:00pm. Ringed around the hotel foyer 9 familiar faces welcomed him - he was late for once - while one new tourist and one new tour guide introduced themselves. With a quick diner in a restaurant literally across the road, it was an early night for tomorrow we would be sadly leaving Vietnam and heading for Cambodia.
Bernie the Vietnamese Cat
At the virtual half way point of this Southeast Asian adventure, now is opportune to address the operators and machinations of running such an event. 10 days ago we meet in similar circumstances to tonights group meeting as a dozen complete strangers unknowing of what would transpire. You have read the colourful worlds and fanciful stories, seen all the pretty pictures, but behind that the dynamics ran a hell of a lot deeper. At the helm our tour leader Boa, while diminutive and seemingly quite, worked tirelessly behind the scenes balancing not only the requirements of a normal tour, but dealing with curve balls thrown at varying times often without us, the tourist, even knowing. Whether it be organising restaurants, answering stupidly obvious questions, or even setting up groups chats for all participants to communicate, Boa and his 10 years experience was the glue holding everything together. And for that we were extremely thankful and Intrepid Travel should be extremely proud of his commitment and efforts made on their behalf.
But we the participants were of equal importance to the tour’s success and everyone in their own way contributed significantly to its triumph. Often self appointed, and playing to their skill set, we each took ownership of certain aspects of daily life on the road making it easier for everyone else to enjoy. We also grew as friends, learning more of each other with each passing day, adjusting our own behaviour accordingly to suit that of the groups’ and looking after one another along the way. In Fatpap’s circumstance it would be his constant desire to stop for a banger and the group would not only allow it, but openly encourage it. In any micro-society that would naturally be expected, but our group, fostered by Boa, made it that much more organic. Having witnessed other tour groups in various hotel lobbies and seeing the calibre of participants, we were very lucky to have secured the collection of individuals we did.
Intrepid as a travel company with over 30 yrs experience connecting people from all walks of life in small group environments is vital to that being possible. Their ethos is not just seeing the world, but experiencing it and feeling the pulse and the shared rhythms from the communities they explore. As their website states, “we're an antidote to loneliness connecting people to the heartbeat of adventure and the soul of the planet.” That could not be truer and this writer defies any of our group to say otherwise.
Intrepid return to the people and the places they visit with continued patronage and constant respect, and are the conduit between locals and traveller making any disconnect seamless. Through their knowledgable guides, local bus drivers and familiarity with preferred vendors in each city, travellers gain maximum exposure through the limited time spent in each.
The tour itself was at times a little rushed, but as evidenced in the pages previous to this, one will no doubt agree a lot was achieved in only 10 days. The level of activity and scope of experiences couldn’t be faulted or even comparatively found elsewhere, save some more time spent in rural areas adding another dimension to the experience. Another time perhaps. But as an introduction to Vietnam this tour, or one similar, would be highly recommended.
So, click here good reader for in the pages that follow the Cambodian leg of this odyssey will be equally revealed through fascinating titbits, quirky stories, and of course banger after banger of imagery.
Thank you all for making it this far, hope you’ve enjoyed this mammoth instalment.
Peter
