Sunrise 16 - BERMAGUI
Being Sydney based, the south coast of NSW has been travelled for well over 40 years. Beyond Batemans Bay however is a little less worn. Bermagui was pencilled for this trip to capture the formations of Camel and Horse Head Rock so named by Bass and Flinders in 1798. These unique formations are believed to be among the oldest rocks in NSW and regularly chased by photographers.
500 Million year old Sapphire Coast, Bermagui
We prayed for clearer weather, and regardless of the answer, were determined to get out there and give it a go come morning light. Horse Head Rock is best photographed from ground level, however with no access other than over craggy rocks, it is wisest to do so when the swell and tides are favourable. Low tide was 8:30am and to make it through the jagged formations along the steep cliffed beach, we planned to be there at its lowest point. Good planning sure, but the rolling swell and crashing waves made it virtually impossible to pass the narrow gaps safely. The light too wasn’t in our favour but we tried our best to capture an image. Not the quintessential shot of the formation desired, however when grouped together, all images accurately tell the story of the morning.
There are well worn walking tracks along the cliff line of these famed formations, and whilst we never planned on taking them, we decided to trek over the headland through muddied path and dense undergrowth to Murunne Point. While not returning an image of worth, this short 2km round trip was worth the effort just the same. The Sapphire Coast forms part of an escarpment developed over 500 million years ago and is unlike anything we have seen anywhere along the NSW coast. Under perfect conditions, hell we’d even settle for favourable conditions, there are numerous compositions along this short stretch of coast and in either morning or afternoon golden hour, the opportunities are inviting.
Bermagui is a spectacular part of the world and as the rains abated, and the sun slowly crashed through the dissapating clouds, its appeal became clearer with each passing hour. Equally famed for its “Blue Pool”, this ocean swimming pool built in the 1930s with funding from the town coffers and loads of locally raised cash, is rated within the top 10 greatest ocean pools of the world. On a perfect summers day with little wind, it would be the ideal spot to cool down in the fresh, clean south coast waters and bask on the sun heated rocks nearby.
But with todays weather our imagination was to paint the picture. The waves bashed against the concrete coping filling, then spilling water inches thick with every movement. The wind from the south was searing, forcing a spray jacket with full hood to be donned. But keeping us there, only a dozen metres off the breaking waves, were numerous seals playing in the rushing waters around the rocks, some even “surfing” on the swell. We grabbed the 600mm Moon Bazooka, a piece of glass weighing more than 2 kilograms on its own, endeavouring to grab an image or two. The Tamron was like a spinnaker in the conditions, and even holding the thing upright, let alone on subject proved immeasurably difficult. Nothing came of the shoot, but the time spent chasing seals playing naturally in their own environment was a joy nevertheless.
We took a stroll through town visiting the many craft and giftware shops, and finished what was in the end a pretty spectacular last day with fish and chips by the harbour lamenting our inevitable departure in the morning back to reality.
Bermagui Harbour, NSW